CHAU DOC - Tra Su Bird Sanctuary

Not in the guidebooks (yet), with only a couple groups coming a week, this 854-hectare protected park’s cajuput forest may be yours alone, if you go. It’s claimed there are ‘one million birds’ of the 65 species, a bit of a stretch, but there are a lot.

It’s best to go around 4pm, in time for the sunset, when thousands of cattle egret, cormorants, herons, Asian openbill storks and other birds return for the night – it’s also about the time the fruit bats wake up. You could also arrange to start at 6am when birds head off (towards Ha Tien) for the day. During rainy season and just after (best August through November), visits are made on low, narrow canoes that rock a bit through the mossy water (at times plain green). In dry season, trips are made by foot or bicycle.

Going by boat is best, particularly when the driver cuts the motor and paddles through seemingly nonexistent waterways through tight forest – the calls of the thousands of birds accompanying the paddle. Most tours also include a stop at a 10m watchtower – reached by a long monkey bridge and a particularly scary tower climb (thin steps surrounded by a lot of nothing). But the views of the forest and Cam and Nha Ban mountains to the west nicely accompany sunset.

A two-hour boat trip – negotiable it seems – is a whopping 350,000D for six people in the ‘big boat’ (not too big) or 250,000D for under four. A one-hour ride is about 150,000D. Worth it if you can afford it. Hire a xe om or drive yourself there (a return trip is about $5). The turn off to ‘Du Lich Sinh Tai’ is 23km south of Chau Doc on the Tri Ton road (just south of the ‘Thot Not’ coconut stands; see Restaurants); the sign points east 3.5km; when it ends go right over a bridge, then left almost immediately over a second one; a ranger cabin is just ahead on your left.

Victoria hotel’s resident guide is a big birder fan and offers trips for $45 per person. See Accommodations.

You can stop off here en route to Ha Tien, but you’re not likely to see many birds during the day, so it’s generally better to day as part of a day trip from Chau Doc. It’s OK to show up in the afternoon to set up a trip.

Tel 076-877-4231 or 0916-188-714; tours begin from 6am (by arrangement) to 5pm daily

Other attractions:

BOAT TOURS
SAM MOUNTAIN
TUP DUC HILL

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