NINH BINH

Cult fave south of Hanoi, Ninh Binh is a scrappy base near limestone cliffs, ancient capitals, Buddhist-styled cathedrals & cat restaurants

Worth It? Yes, for the daytrips not the town.
What to Do Get out of town by motorbike – Tam Coc’s limestone cave boat trips, Cuc Phuong National Park’s langurs, plus endless cave pagodas and Phat Diem’s unusual cathedral.
Best Time to Go October to December; it’s rainy August to October and quite hot May to July.
How Long? Two or three days
Gateway Buses between Hanoi and Hue stop in Ninh Binh, others go east to Haiphong
Fact Catherine Denueve put the area on the (tourism) map, with her gorgeous scenes filmed at Tam Coc for the 1992 film Indochine.

Like just seeing what happens? Stop in Ninh Binh. Hwy 1 traffic kicks up dust as it zips through this ugly-duckling town, but Ninh Binh has a growing cult fanbase for what it’s near to – jutting limestone mountains and boat trips through caves at Tam Coc; Mnong homestays reached by 18km hike through jungle or glimpses at very endangered orange-legged langurs and show-off gibbons at Cuc Phuong; and Vietnam’s most un-French cathedral on a delta road past cat and dog restaurants. Those going between Hue and Hanoi should consider stopping for a couple days – you can take daytrips to Tam Coc and the nearby ancient capital from Hanoi, but it’s more rewarding going with local guides when the crowds are gone. Or just rent a motorbike and explore the rice-paddy villages and cave pagodas by yourself.