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French Quarter Walking Tour

Less stressful to hoof than the ’36 Streets’ area of Old Quarter is this walk from the Hoan Kiem Lake through some of the most grandiose remnants of the French era and finishing around the ‘Cathedral District’ west of the lake. Print out the French Quarter Walking Tour map.

Start at [1] HOAN KIEM LAKE’s northeast corner, where you can cross the lovely red-lacquered [2] THE HUC BRIDGE to the small island that’s home to [3] DEN NGOC SON TEMPLE (Temple of the Jaded Mound; open 7am-7pm), founded in the 14th century for general Tran Hung Dao (see the English sign in back for his story).

There are nice vantage points over the water, particularly toward the slightly leaning, 19th-century [4] TORTOISE TOWER in the middle of the south part of the lake (called the ‘Lake of the Restored Sword’). The tower refers to a golden turtle hero, who reclaimed a magic sword from King Le Thai To (known as Le Loi before becoming king) in the 15th century that had been on loan from a deity to fight off Ming invaders. Some Hanoians swear the very turtle of the legend still swims these murky waters – and at least one does (I had the miraculous fortune of seeing one while researching in 2007). If you can’t make out the snorting bubbles of a surfacing turtle, there’s a giant turtle preserved inside the temple to see.

Walk south along the shady lakeside sidewalks towards the Tortoise Tower. Directly across busy Dien Tien Hoang St from the tower is a square backed with a [5] KING LE THAI TO STATUE, the old sword-borrower himself. Next to the statue is the creamy façade of the century-old [6] POST OFFICE, which the French built over the site of a giant pagoda.

Walk east from the lake along the square along Le Thach St. At the end of the block on the right is the one-time [7] GOVERNOR OF TONKIN’S RESIDENCE (12 Ngo Quyen St, at Le Thach St), built in 1818. To the right a block is the gorgeous ultra-French neoclassical [8] METROPOLE HOTEL (15 Ngo Quyen St), which became a rat-infested, prostitute den in the ‘80s; it’s nicer now – like $300-rooms nice. Stop by for the afternoon chocolate bar if timing’s right (after 3pm). Follow Le Phung Hieu St two blocks east to busy Tran Quang Khai St and turn right.

A block south, you’ll pass the [9] MUSEUM OF VIETNAMESE REVOLUTION (216 Tran Quang Khai St; admission US$0.65; open 8-11.45am & 1.30-4.15pm Tue-Sun), a lightly air-conditioned French building behind a green wrought-iron fence. Exhibits – with English subtitles – include a French guillotine from the Hoa Lo prison, old photos of Vietnamese heroes and one of Richard Nixon visiting French troops in 1953.

If time or attention’s short, skip it for the better [10] HISTORY MUSEUM (Trang Tien & Tran Quang Khai Sts; admission US$1; open 8-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm Tue-Sun), set in a gorgeous golden French/Vietnamese style the French employed for many public buildings in Vietnam. It’s previously served as the Ecole Francaise d’Extreme Orient and a French consulate. The exhibits cover Vietnam’s distant past – from the Cham people to 2000-year-old bronze drums from the Dong Son culture. Afterwards, take a look at the free sculpture garden on the building’s south side, where there’s a shady café here if you need coffee.

A couple blocks east on Trang Tien St is the neo-Baroque [11] OPERA HOUSE, built in 1911 and now widely used for traditional- and classic-music concerts – the only way in to see the chandeliers and marble staircases. The booking office is open 8am to 8pm daily.

[12] TRANG TIEN ST ahead bustled big-time during the French-colonial days – now much reconstrution is at work, but there are many old buildings’ covered walkways to walk under – and past a long-time ice cream stand: Kem Trang Tien (54 Trang Tien St) – a few blocks west back to the southern edge of Hoan Kiem Lake. Stop, if you’re hungry, stop for a quick bowl of beef noodle soup at Pho 24, for a coffee or snack at Harpo Café on the southwestern edge of the lake, or for fuller meals at Bobby Chinn across the street.

Walk north along the west end of the lake, looking back over the Tortoise Tower to the giant clock, and veer left at Hang Trong St to tiny Nha Tho St (aka [13] BOUTIQUE STREET), lined with shops selling locally made fashion and home items, such as Nagu (20 Nha Tho St). Mid-block you’ll pass the tiny arched entry to the Ba Da Pagoda, established in the 15th century; straight ahead, the [14] ST JOSEPH’S CATHEDRAL (1886) stands unpainted with a small square in front looking more like a meeting point for knights than the shirtless kids you’re likely to see playing football.

Take a left on Phu Doan St, perhaps stopping at propaganda stores, and go two blocks to Hai Ba Trung St, then right a block to the old ‘Hanoi Hilton,’ the fascinating [15] HOA LO PRISON (1 Hoa Lo St, at Hai Ba Trung St; admission US$0.35; open 8.30-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm Tue-Sun). The brick wall you see guards only a sliver of the original – construction of the adjoining Hanoi Towers was originally going to raze the full block, but public outcry saved this portion as a museum. Past the ‘no frolicking is allowed’ sign, the exhibits keeps the bulk of focus on the French-era of the prison (the French built it in 1896) – with cells showing tight/dark conditions where prisoners slept in leg irons, and photos of decapitated heads testifying to the strict control. Don’t miss the small room geared towards the American prisoners kept here during the Vietnam War – only John McCain looks defiant in his mug shot (probably foresaw a career in politics).

A couple blocks west is a wonderful spot for noodles or che desert, An Ngon (18 Phan Boi Chau), where you’ll find many motorbike or car taxis if you can’t bear another footstep.